My 10.11 migration blew up because one of my directories didn’t have enough space for the migration.

The path /var/lib/jellyfin/data has insufficient free space. Required: at least 2GB.

It looked like the jellyfin service started after the package install, but it was stuck in a loop attempting migration.

I wonder if Windows Defender is parsing the hosts file and flagging specific entries. Perhaps your program knows what is flagged through trial & error, while I did more of an aggressive blanket approach.

It’s the only thing I can think of.

Windows Defender will pick up any alterations to hosts file and revert it back to default. You have to whitelist the file before setting up any changes.

I know you are asking for FOSS alternatives, but for those who are looking to just restore the old programs:

https://win7games.com/

Burned optical media shelf life can be as little as 5 years, so I don’t think it should be recommended for long-term storage.

Don’t want to ruin the fun but he missed an apostrophe in the sentence. His stuff is in the back of the garage. “mine’s at the back of the garage”

Easily defeated by those who play Minesweeper.

I’ve been holding onto OG Lawnchair faaaar too long. I wish the updated version would land on official F-Droid already.

So one of the gotchas about stopped/disabled apps is that other apps can still call and launch them. I frequently saw my apps pop back up even after being disabled, since I used SuperFreezZ to monitor them. https://f-droid.org/packages/superfreeze.tool.android/

The alternative to that would be an ADB disable. IIRC it takes the app away from userspace completely. It doesn’t touch the system-level though, so a factory reset will bring it back.

If you can’t handle setting up ADB and it’s hoops, there is an app combo that can set up a bridge and run the ADB disable for you: https://f-droid.org/en/packages/io.github.samolego.canta/

The real fun started with Android 12. Google introduced the ability for some preloaded apps to avoid being disabled and prevent ADB shell disable.

It was a few years back that I dumped Brave and had to perform the surgery to remove the service manually. I can’t remember the name exactly, but this article says “Brave VPN Service” and “Brave VPN Wireguard Service”. You sound like you don’t have it installed.

If you are using Windows, double-check your services.msc to ensure that the VPN was disabled/removed. After I got tired of fighting, I uninstalled Brave and the uninstaller did not remove the VPN service. So I have my doubts the patch would remove it.

No, after Brave installed a service level running VPN without my consent, and continued to reinstall it silently every background update even after removal, it’s a bad browser. That’s what malware does.

Comparing two companies with poor track records doesn’t make them good companies when compared to each other.

I feel like there was an app from the ACLU or EFF that did exactly that. Locked the device and started recording on panic button combo, and if I am remembering correctly had the ability to auto-upload to a cloud in case of device seizure.

EDIT: Ah, ok I was confused. It was the ACLU Mobile Justice app which was cloud based, but it was shutdown just last month. They point to external entities having access to their database as the reason.

It doesn’t even mention when Brave silently installed their VPN as a service on your system. Which doesn’t get removed when you uninstall Brave. And if you do manually remove it, gets reinstalled on Brave silent automatic update, because that’s also a background running service.

Correct me if I’m wrong but- manually configuring your DNS in the OS would still enable traffic monitoring, wouldn’t it? I always thought DNS traffic is not encrypted by default.

I haven’t followed Kotaku for years. Did they give up on covering video games? Car manufacturing isn’t even adjacent.

Any reason you avoided the official Raspberry Pi Imager software? You really can just configure a headless OS all before flashing the SD card. Choose RPi OS lite from the list, then set up your hostname, username, password, wireless and turn on SSH service. Then all you have to do after flashing is plug in power and SSH in. None of this display troubleshooting would be needed.

Two questions:

Do you have anything between the Pi and Display, like an HDMI switch? Sometimes the Pi incorrectly sets the display resolution if it can’t communicate with the display directly.

Did you use the Raspberry Pi Imager program? You can configure SSH and WiFi, before you even image to SD. It’s how I set up my headless stuff so I don’t have to futz with connecting displays.